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Introduction:

I came across this pattern in the tying’s of New Zealand angler, Braeden de Lange.  It immediately struck a chord with me, as it jogged a memory of my very first trip to Rhodes in the North Eastern Cape, to fish the Wild Trout Association Festival in 2011.  I was under invitation by Peter Brigg, and while fishing with him on the Birnam-Bothwell beat(s) on the Bokspruit, recall that he was fishing a chenille-bodied Elk-hair Caddis pattern.

Why a (parachute) Caddis?

A (parachute) Caddis is a very versatile dry fly pattern which, like the Parachute Adams, mimics a wide range of the adult stage of aquatic insects, including Caddis Flies, Mayflies, and even Midges.  It is an effective pattern, useful in a wide range of situations, whether you're targeting trout or other fish species that feed on surface aquatic insects. 

The lumo-pink parachute post makes it easy to spot on the water, even in poor light or when the water conditions are not perfect, and has become a popular choice of colour for parachute posts.

Parachute patterns are known for being easy to fish, without sacrificing presentation. 

Materials:

  • HOOK : emerger #14 / #16 (a heavier wire hook will keel every time, e.g. Mustad C49S)
  • THREAD : 6/0 or 8/0 (70 / 50 denier), colour of choice
  • BODY : micro Suede Chenille, colour of choice (e.g. tan / brown / olive)
  • UNDERWING : pearl Krystal Flash
  • OVERWING : white Polypropylene Yarn
  • THORAX : Straggle Legs, colour of choice (e.g. brown / black)
  • POST : fluorescent pink Antron Yarn         
  • PARACHUTE : dry fly hackle, colour of choice (e.g. badger / furnace / grizzly).

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Step 1.

Dress the hook shank with touching wraps to make a solid base for the materials to seat on … most important! (too many tyers skimp on dressing the shank, and find that the material starts to slip when fishing the fly).

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Step 2.

After singeing the end with a flame, attach a short piece of chenille for the Caddis body.

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Step3.

Tie in a few strands to crystal flash for the underwing; the light/flash coming off gives the impression of movement.

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Step 4a.

Tie in the polypropylene yarn overwing in the middle, half and half facing back and front…

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Step 4b.

              …and lock it in by folding it over and tying it down with a few over-wraps … this will secure the wing materials and prevent it from slipping out. Trim the length of the chemille body.

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Step 5a.

Tie in the antron post material … I prefer to tie on top of the hook shank (for less bulk) using a figure-8 wraps…

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Step 5b.

…and fold up and make a firm base with thread wraps.

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Step 6.

Tie in the parachute hackle (after stripping off the fibres from a few millimetres of the bottom of the feather stem) with the shiny side facing you.

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Step 7a.

Tie in the straggle leg material…

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Step 7b.

…and wrap forward, with a few turns behind and in front of the post to form the thorax and legs, and tie off behind the hook eye.

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Step 8.

Wrap the hackle around the post, 4-5 turns, to form the parachute.

Tie off, and whip finish behind the hook eye.

TIP : upsize the parachute hackle so that the fly has a bigger “footprint” for the fish to see.

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Step 9.

Trim the parachute post to the desired length … and Go Fish…

 

Tight Lines!

 

 

View of the fly from the top and bottom.

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Of course, I had to have a go at a “para-RAB” version, adding the squirrel tail fibres…

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