I like fishing PTNs in small streams, predominantly for trout but also for yellowfish. Over the past two years I've been trying a few PTN variations using tying techniques partly learnt at our Natal Fly Dressers Society evenings. The Boklet 2.2 is something that has worked well for me on the Umgeni, upper Mooi and Bushmans. It tends to work best under a strike indicator and fished close to the bottom. However, it can also be used as an emerger pattern in a dry dropper rig. In this example I have used a black bead but pink and rainbow work well too. The black has proven the most effective, particularly in Autumn. I sometimes add a CDC collar to introduce additional movement. If using a pink or rainbow bead, I normally switch to a silver or copper wire ribbing.
Materials.
Hook: Umpqua Comp Jig size 18
Bead: 2.5 - 3mm anodized rainbow, pink or black tungsten
Thread: Semperfli nanosilk 30D
Tail: Olive pheasant tail
Body: Pheasant tail in touching wraps, ribbed with SM red ultra wire
Collar: Wapsi Rabbit Dubbing in Grey (Olive or grey CDC can be added)
Step 1: Secure the hook and bead in the vice and wrap your thread down to the bend of the hook.
Step 2: Bring the thread back up to just behind the bead and tie in your wire on the opposite side of the fly. Wrap your thread down to the bend of the hook. Make sure you apply touching wraps over the wire, especially if you are using something thicker than nanosilk. Keep the wire on the opposite side and don't let it slip around and under the hook.
Step 3: Tie in the pheasant tail by trapping in the fibres with two loose wraps and then if position is satisfactory pull tight and wrap once more using a fair amount of tension. I normally use 3 - 4 fibres for the tail.
Step 4: Wrap your body material up to just behind the bead and tie in. Use overlapping wraps to create a taper in the body, making each wrap successively tighter or closer spaced. Cut the excess pheasant tail off.
Step 5: Wrap the wire towards you (in the opposite direction to that which you wrapped the pheasant tail). Wrap it three or four times just above the tail to create a bit of a hot spot. Then wrap the wire using even spacing to create cross ribbing up to just behind the bead. This also makes the fly more durable which helps when fishing for trout which have sharp little teeth.
Step 6: Dub the collar, leaving a small amount of space for the CDC (if you intend on including this). Only apply a minimal amount of dubbing so as not to make the thorax too bulky.
Step 7: (CDC - Optional - Variation with pink bead shown): Find a feather with long fibres. Use a clip and cut the quill away. You can also pre-cut the outer edge of the CDC to a standardised length, but I often leave the fibres as they are. I like to run the thread over my fingernail to flatten it out. Allow your bobbin to hang off your fingernail and spin. When it stops spinning, split the thread with a needle and place the CDC into the thread. Remember to fully commit when releasing the fibres and removing your finger.
Step 8: Spin the thread clockwise to secure the fibres. Fold the fibres back and then wrap them into the collar. Two or three wraps should be enough. Tie in with a double whip finish. Add glue or resin for extra durability.
James Drew aged 10 doing a presentation to the Natal Fly Dressers Society earlier this year.
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