Caught my personal best rainbow trout on this fly. 😊 Thanks to my friend Kristine Page for naming this fly.

Easy to tie and very effective in still water.  Works all year round.  Fish it close to structure and can be teamed with buzzers or other flies that also work in structured areas.

The fly is not weighted but you can add lead if you want it to sink faster or if you want to fish it in deeper water.  The wing case is made of foam so it will also hover in mid water if fished with an intermediate sinking line.  Depending on the water fished, you can use an intermediate line or sinking line.  Slow retrieves like figure eight can be used with this fly.

Bill of Material

Hook:                   Nymph hook (Any) #10-16
                              (Used Fulling Mill 35085 #12 Nymph hook in demonstration)

Thread:                Black 70 denier or 6/0

Tail:                      Black Hare’s, guard hairs (Used black Zonker strip)

Body:                    Black Hare’s, body hairs

Rib:                       UTC SM or BR Green wire

Wing Case:         2mm thick black foam

                              Cut width per hook size:

#10-12 - 3mm wide

#14-16 - 2mm wide

Thorax:                Black Hare’s, body hairs

Legs:                     Black small Hen neck feather

Step By Step Tying Instructions


1.  After securing a nymph hook in the vice, start with your thread about 2mm behind the hook eye making even wraps stopping just behind the bend of the hook.
Pull a small clump of hair from a black Zonker strip or Hare’s face, remove the soft body hairs and tie in a fair amount of just the guard hairs as a tail.  You can measure the tail length from the hook eye to hook point, about 2/3 of the hook shank.


2.  Do not cut the waste of the tail but with even wraps, tie it in as part of the body.  Advance the thread back to the bend of the hook with even wraps.  Tie in a piece of green UTC wire, extending the wire 2mm from the eye of the hook.  This will prevent any humps in the body and keep it even and balanced.



3.  With your thread still at the bend of the hook, add a small amount of fine Hare’s hair (use the soft hairs pulled from the guard hairs used for the tail) and dub it on to about 5cm of thread, evenly and thin.  With touching wraps, create a smooth and slightly tapered body covering about 2/3 of the hook shank.


4.  Take the wire and wrap counter wise, leaving even spaces creating a rib on the body of the fly.


5.  Cut a small arrow on the point of the foam.


6.  Place the point of the arrow of the foam just behind the hook eye and on top of the hook shank.  Push the foam slightly down and around the hook shank with your thumb and index finger, secure it with thread wraps and tie backwards about 1/3 of the hook shank.  You need to tie the foam a bit over the dubbed body to create a good-looking wing case.


7.  Add the same dubbing used for the body, about 4cm but thicker than used for the body.  The thorax should be slightly thicker than the body.


Tip!  At this point, add one whip finish to stop your thread from slipping off the hook eye.


8.  Use a small black Hen neck feather for the legs, pulling the fibres backwards to stand 90 degrees from the stem.  Leave a small amount of fibres at the point to tie down just behind the hook eye.


9.  Lift the feather and preen the fibres backwards while wrapping it just behind the hook eye, about three turns should be sufficient.  Secure the fibres and do a one turn whip finish.


10.  Get hold of the foam and gently pull it forward, splitting the legs evenly.  While holding the foam, wrap the thread around it just behind the hook eye.  Don’t let go of the thread but pull it gently down while pulling the foam away from the hook eye.  You will see the foam shapes around the shank forming a decent oval shaped wing case. Keep the tension on the thread, let go of the foam and add more wraps to secure the foam in.


11.  Use sharp scissors to cut the foam, as close as possible to the thread wraps.  Use the eye of the hook as a guide, cut the foam at a 45-degree angle while pulling the foam away from the hook eye.


12.  Build a neat little head and whip finish.  You can add some head cement or any preferred finish to secure the thread wraps behind the eye.


Well done – you made a little Ninja!!!

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